Getting Fixed: Trad Climbing in Eldorado Caynon
Eldorado Canyon is truly a monastery
for aspiring trad climbers. Located just outside of Boulder, Colorado,
it hosts hundreds of feet of vertical expanse on famous crags like the
Bastille and Red Garden Wall. Some of the most coveted and feared routes
in climbing's history grace the steep faces of discontinuous cracks and
overhangs. It has long been the proving ground for climbing masters like
Royal Robbins, Layton Kor and Derek Hersey since the 1950's. Over the
decades, Eldo has maintained its reputation for scary climbing and dicey
protection. Upon entering the narrow canyon for the first time, a person
cannot help but feel humbled by the towering gates of rock that rise straight
out of the road and tease fantasies of future glory. Even the notoriety
and folklore of Eldo creates a daunting aura that can linger in a climber's
psyche like viscous oil and haunt his dreams. From the parking lot, walls
of rock fan out in all directions like an imposing fortress and contain
routes of all difficulties no more than a stone's throw from the car.
Lurking between shadow and sky, hundreds of famous and classic test pieces
can be found. Among these are such fabled routes as The Naked Edge (5.11b),
Vertigo (5.11b), Jules Vern (5.11a R) and X-M (5.10c R), to name a few.
There is also a selection of mega classic moderates like Ruper (5.8),
The Bulge (5.7+ R), Wind Ridge (5.6 ) and the world-famous Bastille Crack
(5.8). The abundance of south-facing walls allow for climbing to be had
year-round in the canyon. On a sunny day in February, the canyon is virtually
empty except for the occasional climber perched on a warm belay ledge.
ikenna Clokey punches through the
incredible jams on pitch two of "Werk Supp" (5.9+) on the Bastille.
Warren Franz seconding the very popular
first pitch of "Werk Supp" (5.8+)
Luke Parody following the second pitch
of "The Northwest Corner" (5.10d R) on the Bastille.
Derek Franz cranking through the last
pitch on the aptly named testpiece, "Vertigo" (5.11b). -photo by Ryan
Franz
* Feature written
and photographed by Derek Franz, March 2003. All
information regarding etiiquette, park information and directions can
be sourced from Eldo canyon park regualtions and Derek Franz.
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RECOMENDED MAPS:
Trails
Illustrated Boulder
GUIDE
NOTES AND DIRECTIONS:
To
get to Eldorado Canyon State Parkfrom Boulder, drive south on Broadway
(which becomes Highway 93) until a stoplight intersection 12 miles
out of town is reached. At this point, turn right on highway 170
and head west into the town of Eldorado Springs. To enter the park,
there is a $4 entry fee. The area is small and suffers a great deal
of traffic in the summer, so planning ahead is advised. Locals enforce
a strong climbing ethic in Eldorado, so be sure to stay on designated
approach trails and to pack out all trash. Also, a permit is required
to place or replace bolts and pitons. Recommended guidebooks to
the area include Best of Boulder Climbs, or Rock Climbing Eldorado
Canyon by Richard Rossiter. Rock Climbing Colorado, by Stewart M.
Green, also provides a smaller, select guide. Colorado Mountain
School provides a guiding service for the area and can be reached
at (888) 267-7783.
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